Vermeil, Gold Plate and Gold Filled
Flex Shafts, Dremels and Drilling Tools
Jewelry Tools Tools at Micro-Mark
Stone Setting: Cabochons and Faceted Stones
Heres the link to Prong Settings from Start to Finish!
In the video, I show you how to create three different types of prong settings that will enhance your jewelry and make you look like a pro. Covered are: The simple prong setting, which uses a tube and prongs, the simple basket setting and the traditional basket setting.
How to determine drill bit size when setting flush set stones.
Bright Cutting and thinning a tubes walls for tube setting a faceted gemstone.
How to cut an opening for a tube setting in a ring.
Im having difficulties with tube setting stones
Setting square ended stones, protecting a stone during setting, fixing a scratched stone.
Proper or safe way to solder a bangle closed so as not to hurt a Tahitian Pearl
Is there a way to set cabs flush or almost flush in a copper cuff?
How can I set a shell in a bezel using a tube rivet?
Sources for CZs and Tips on Flush Setting
Stones and Hardness (Also: Fixing a Scratched Stone)
Filing a Flat Spot, On a Ring Shank, for Soldering
How to get my bezel to sit flat while soldering
Question: How to attach a cabochon setting to metal, bone or horn.
Question: How do you avoid scratching a stone when using a file to file prongs?
How to solder multiple settings on one ring shank?
Additional information, added 11/29/16
How to make a ring with multiple settings: how to layout for multiple stones and how to set.
Next up: How to mark a ring shank for setting placement.
My stone isnt round, how do I make an oval basket setting?
What size gauge wire should I use to make delicate prongs?
How to Solder a Bezel to a Ring Shank.
How to solder a setting to a ring shank.
Beginning Jewelry Projects: Making and Soldering a Pearl Ring
Creating A Frame Setting For Cabochons:Part 1andPart 2
How to Make a Bezel and Set a Cabochon:
How to Solder Settings, Bails and Wire
How to Use: GRS Quick Change Sharpening Fixture
Prong Settings for Unusual, Irregular or Oddly Shaped Stones
DIY Tools: Clamps and Vises for Stone Setting.
List of Tools and Resources for Bead Setting.
Question & Answers: Stones and Stone Setting.
Settings for Irregularly Shaped Stones and Objects
A Note on some of the following links:All links to Amazon are via my affiliate account. The affiliate account pays the person supplying the link, a tiny percentage of the sale (if you purchase). This type of program allows us, those of us who spend their precious hours providing free content, to make a few cents. If you can, please purchase through these links to support this free service. Thank you so much!
Thats an old video 2014 and pre-cataract surgery! I was also, in my original studio. Forgot that my sister popped in (in the hat!) too. It was a walk down memory lane. Weewee LouLoo eating Wonder Woman was funny! Didnt remember that either!
On deciding which bur to use, I always go with a setting bur slightly smaller than the diameter of the stone. So for a 2.0mm, you would use a 1.9mm bur a 1.8 would work too. But, before using the setting bur, I use a small ball bur to remove some of the material a 1.8 ball bur works for this part. I re-watched the video and I said, that to determine what size drill bit to use, to drill your starter hole with, you measure the diameter of your stone then divide that number by three. The drill bit size will be then be 1/3rd of the diameter of the stone. Hope this helps!
Bright Cutting and thinning a tubes walls for tube setting a faceted gemstone.
I appreciate such a thorough answer [see this post, on this pagefor the original question]! I do have the setting punches, but still have been having the problem. Ive thought I was thinning the wall of the tube enough with a ball bur, but dont have any setting bursI have a couple of gravers (am planning to use your YouTube videos to try chasing one of these days), but dont understand how to do what youre suggesting using a graver on the tubeIve read that other places on the web but no one is demonstrating it??? Ill sure give the idea of using a file on the inside of the tube a try. Re polishing, I LOVE the polishing pins from Rio for getting into tight spaces with various gritsthey work wonderfully. Thanks again for your help, and if you have any videos (or links) about using gravers on bezels, that would be of benefit.
Hi again! The gravers are used to Bright Cut. Thatvideo of mine, that I referenced in my prior message, has a section where I use the gravers to bright cut the interior of the already set bezel (towards the end). Here are a few other videos on using the graver for bright cutting: one fromGanoksin. Inthis videohe is using something like theGraverMax which is just a mechanical version of a hand engraver. Heres anothervideoshowing another technique that employs gravers. I also have some pictures of using a graver, on my website:Setting a Pear-Shaped Stone.
Understand that chasing isNOTdone with gravers. It employs liners to chase and repousse tools to push the metal out. Have you seenmy videoon this subject?
Note the bevel, that I filed, on my setting (on thepage, that I directed you to). In my last message, I noted that you should use the file to thin the. It is very difficult to thin the interior walls with files and not destroy the seat for the stone. So, use a larger setting bur (or a larger ball bur it doesnt matter which) to thin the interior walls and/or a file to thin the outer walls. Just be careful to not make the walls too thin. I would start by filing the OUTER walls, annealing, checking the fit and if it is good, then using your Stone-Setting system punch. If the metal still isnt thin enough, you need to stop and consider whether to file, on the outer walls some more. Filing is a less aggressive way to thin the walls of the setting. You also have more control with a file than you would with the more aggressive ball bur. A very important fact to consider, before moving on is:you need to determine if the ball bur will make the seat, for the stone, too wide and cause the stone to wobble.My guess would be: Yes, it will make the seat too large. So, Id use the ball bur as a last resort.
The bezel should offer some resistance when setting because you are moving metal. It shouldnt be super, super easy because that usually means that your metal has been reduced to tinfoil! Tinfoil will not hold a stone in place safely or for any extended period of time.If you use theStone-setting system, with a mallet, the thinned walls should be easy to set especially if the piece is annealed beforehand.
ALSO:you may need to anneal the settingbefore trying to set again as it is probably very work hardened by now. Just anneal the entire piece.
Every time that you hammer on metal, you work harden it. Annealing rearranges the internal atomic structure, creating air spaces, around the atoms, so that they have more room to move therefore, the metal becomes more malleable.
Updated: 7/21/17. Original post: 7/5/17
Do you have any tips for placing a tube setting within a ring shank Nancy? I can never seem to cut the angle correctly on the ring and end up with gaps.
You can start by drilling a hole, then moving the drill bits up in size. If you have a drill press or a drill press for aflex shaftorDremel, this would be easier.If you dont own a drill press, try to hold your arm very still and perpendicular to your work. If you can, lean on something that will hold your hand steady. Rest the side of your hand on your bench if possible.
Two possible hand positions for drilling. Note that the base of my hand is resting on either the vise or the desk. This gives you added stability.
The vise pictured is made by GRS:The Multi-Purpose Vise. You can also purchase the30 piece attachment set. Handpiece isForedoms Quick Change Handpiece.
Line the vises jaws by gluing magnetic strips to stiff leather. (see my video:
at about 20:24 for instructions). This protects your work. Links to materials used are in the video description area.
You can open up the hole more with a round file. They make
that are parallel and in varying thicknesses. These are great for creating nice, even openings. Otto Frei sells tiny round,
files that you might find useful too.
You want the fit really snug maybe even have to tap it in. This holds your tubing immobile during the soldering process too.
See myFlex Shaft pagefor more information.
Im having a very hard time with tube settings. Any good links for help? My problem is with straight tube settings, not using diamonds, therefore cant put the tube in the flex shaft to set the stone quickly. Im having a problem getting the tube pushed over enough stone sufficiently to hold it thoroughly. Ive read about using a graver, but dont understand what to do with one or how to use it to help with tube settings???
Have you thinned the tubing walls with a small, flat file (a Barrette, escapement file is what I use)? I file an outer bevel on the tubing prior to setting. This thins the material, making it easier to push over the stone. Sometimes, you can just use a burnisher to rub the bezel over the stone.
all sell barrette files (among many other companies). It makes life easier to have a rough cut and a fine cut cuts down on the sanding! I like small files too so, if I was purchasing two different cuts of barrette files, say from Otto Frei, Id buy either 40-2 & 40-6 or 40-4 & 40-8. They come in two lengths, ergo the 40. The other length is 55. There are also. The smaller the number the rougher the cut. So, a 2 cut is rougher than a 8. Got it? Awesome! The two files that I use most are my 1/2 round and my barrette. Just my preference.
There are also these great punches:, that make tube setting really easy. Rio Grande carries them.
First, watch my video:How to Use Snap-Set Settings(I, briefly, use the Stone-Setting System in it!). How to use a stone setting punch: (This is all done AFTER the seat is cut, the tubing height is adjusted and pre-finishing is completed.) For a ring, place the ring, faceup on a ring mandrel (you could also use a vise or thermoplastics to hold the ring). Find a punch that fits over the tubing. Center the punch over the setting and tap with a hammer (sort of heavily) a few times.
Because the punch is conical, it should push the walls down, over the stone. If setting on something other than a ring, use a vise or thermoplastics to hold your work. Make sure that the piece is supported so that the hammer blows dont dent the metal.
With the punches, you can also set by hand. Place the punch over the setting and with your hand, push down and turn ( 360) the punch. This can be easily done with thinned or thin tubing. But, is tough with thicker material.
If you dont want to buy the punches and if your bezel wall is particularly thick and the stone is large enough, you can employ a hammer handpiece or use a setting punch (or a bezel pusher) in conjunction with a hammer. Secure your work. Tap the rim of the tubing around the stone (with the hammer and the punch), by punching at an angle and rolling the bezel rocker or pusher, up towards the stone, in an arcing pattern. This is done by first pushing in the north wall, then the south, east and then west. The next course pushes in the areas between: NE, SW, NW, SE, etc. until all the walls are pushed in and down.
The punch is held at about a 45 angle and rolled up over the stone.
Tap often, rather than tapping hard. Think of yourself as a little hammering machine!
Ensure that your work is fully supported either in a vise, on a mandrel or stuck in some thermoplastic. Protect your work with leather or plastic jaws in your vise.
Clean up the interior edges with either a graver if desired (see my page:Stonesetting: Setting a Pear-Shaped Stonefor information on using a graver). A graver is used to clean up the inner edge or to cut a seat not for setting. John Cogswells book:has info on using the graver on the interior edge of a setting called:. See pages 58, 59 and 60, of the book.
While youre looking for good stonesetting books, check out myLink: Books: Stonesettingtoo!
If you have a burnisher that can reach the interior bezel wall, that can be used to polish the interior edge of the setting too. If there is a lot of clean up, and your filing skills are pretty good, use an escapement file (2 barrette files: one a 2 or 3 (rough) and a fine file (5-8) to file away dents, scratches and imperfections on the outer and inner edges of the setting. Take care to not over-thin the setting.
You can also use, in conjunction with the files or alone, silicone polishing wheels: pins or knife edge, to further refine the surface. You can also just burnish the bezel if there arent a lot of deep scratches.
See my Youtube video: How to Make aBezel and Set a Cabochonat 31:30 this is where I set the cabochon. Its basically the same process.
How to clean up a bezel that is damaged?
Seethis questionunder soldering for the answer. My answer also discusses how to move a soldered element.
I have a question on setting a pear shaped or square/pointed corner cabochon. I have only set two stones so far and am pretty inexperienced. How do you deal with the extra metal on the corners or points of stones so that it doesnt bunch up when you push the bezel up and around the stone?
Please see my page:Setting a Pear Shaped StoneandSettings for Irregularly Shaped Stones and Objects.
Setting stones with pointy ends, like your pear shaped and square stones, is a bit tricky as the tips are very fragile. Do you haveJohn Cogswellsbook:Creative Stonesetting? If not, I highly recommend purchasing it. Onpages 73 and 74Mr. Cogswell discusses your question, as do other books. I have links, to several here, underStone Setting Books.
Pear and Marquise stones are more difficult to set because the the extreme angles involved. Please see my stonesetting page for directions on how to create this setting. (Coming very soon).
I have set many bezels like you describe and it takes some practice.Wear the most magnification that you have available. I often wish that I had a microscope for setting, ah, so many tools, so little room or money!
I recommend creating a practice bezel from copperand then try the technique. It is much less frustrating to mess up a practice piece than your final piece (plus you get all that bezel-making experience). Much of the jewelry in my try it again later box is in there because of stone setting problems. Fortunately, it only happens infrequently now. Part of the reason for that is the following technique.
To avoid scratching a stone while setting
Rub a piece of blue painters tape or masking tape over the stone so that, if you slip with the burnisher or sanding discs/sandpaper/files, you dont scratch the stone.
After applying the tape and smoothing it down, run your thumbnail in the crease between the stone and the bezel wall.
Cut with the blade tip angled towards the bezel wall so that you dont scratch the stone with the scalpel.
Obviously, the smaller the stone, the more difficult the above process is.I dont bother taping stones less than 4mm.
If you are prong setting, the tape can get stuck under the prongs.
Heres a little video, that I made, onhow to apply the tapeused to protect your stone.
Removing Scratches from Glass or Stones
starting with the 45 micron polish, then 14 and finish with the 1/2 micron on a
(have a variety on hand for different polishing situations). Make sure that you get a buff that will fit in your flex shaft. They make large buffs for buffing wheels you dont want those! These
have a 3/32 shank that will fit in a flex shaft and in a
there are other types and grits of diamond paste. I just chose Rios because it came as a kit.
If the scratch is deep, you can try silicone polishers like
. Use knife edge for larger areas and points for smaller.
Start with black (medium), then blue (fine) and finally pink (extra fine) (the white is coarse you probably wont need that I hope).
End with the diamond polish (probably just the final 1/2 micron). Experiment.
Clean up stone and/or setting with a soft toothbrush, warm water and dish detergent.
With faceted stones, be very careful to not sand off the facets
try to avoid digging a hole or sanding flat spots into the stone
. This is a very subtle, delicate operation.
Practice with inexpensive stones, CZs or glass stones first.
***If the stone belongs to someone else, is very expensive, old or not something you feel comfortable fixing, bring it to a jeweler/gemologist/faceter/
Proper or safe way to solder a bangle closed so as not to hurt a Tahitian Pearl
I have a Tahitian Pearl Bangle project that I want to get to and need to know the proper or safe way to solder the bangle closed so as not to hurt the Pearl. The pearl is drilled straight through. Once I have the Pearl on the bangle wire, should I use a heat sink or some kind of compound on the Pearl so it withstands the heat of the torch for soldering the bracelet closed?
I would be very nervous to solder anything with a pearl in/on it! Is there any way that you can remove the pearl? Heat is not very kind to organic matter. But, saying that, there are a couple of things to try but, Id try them with a cheap pearl and the same type of metal you are using (as the conductivity, inherent in the metal, should be the same for testing).
Some people find a way to submerge the heat sensitive material in water. Is there any way you can prop it so that it is completely submerged? The water will keep the pearl from getting hot. Another option is to use something likeRios Chill Gel.
Viewers response after attending a class:
I went to a jewelry class this weekend and was told to put the pearl on the wire and have it the farthest from the join you will solder. Wrap the pearl in layers of wet paper towel to protect it.
Is there a way to set cabs flush or almost flush in a copper cuff? I want a casual funky look, and dont think I can accomplish that with faceted stones. Of course I could be wrong.
Yes, there is a way to flush set cabochons in copper or almost any metal. A lot depends on how big the stones are and the thickness of the metal.Charles Lewton-Brainhas a piece on how to create a gypsy setting. He uses a faceted stone but, you can do this technique with a cabochon.Creative Stonesettingby John Cogswell has a chapter (6) on Gypsy and Flush Mount Settings. Mr. Cogswell also discusses another technique called the Roman Setting. All require thick metal. There may be a way to make this work for you.
There is also theinvisible setting. Although, youd probably need square or rectangular cabs but, maybe not.
Its easier to do these setting in wax, and then they are cast. But, they can also be done with metal.
You could also backset the stones. Tim McCreight has a little information on this technique in his book:The Complete MetalSmithon page 128. Think I need to do a video on this technique!
Alittle more infoon the gypsy setting andmorehere. Heres info on setting, in general, fromJewelry Making Dailywith a bit on Gypsy setting.Back to Table of Contents
I want to set a shell in a bezel using a tube rivet (heavy walled tubing), then set a tiny faceted stone in the hole that is there from the rivet.
Here are my ideas such as they are: The problem with setting into the rivet, WITHOUT, soldering a tube in there lies in the fact that there isnt any metal left to pull over the stone to hold it in place its all schmeared down from the riveting process. But, in fact there is still some metal that you can use!!!! But, you have to wait and listen to my other ideas first!
Option one(cheating but, what the heck): You could epoxy the stone in.
Option two: make a rivet (nail) from a disc of metal from 10 14 gauge or so. You would also need wire that just fits into the tubing for this like telescoping tubing for a hinge. In the end, it would look like a nail. So, you make the nail, push the wire into the tubing, rivet the wire on the back side only (over the other rivet a bit) taking care to not mar the disc on the top. THEN, you flush set the stone into the top of the disc. Ive never done this but, it could be cool. Practice First! (see drawing) You could probably cut a seat in the rivet tubing for the disc to slide down into otherwise it will poke out a hair or three.
Option three: Cut a seat in your thick tubing after riveting. Drop the stone in and then, with a graver, do whats called raising stitches. (this link, pages 75 and 76.) Ignore most of what is at the link except for how to do it or pull out Tim McCreights book (link below). Basically, using a graver, you curl a piece of metal, down over the stone. Id use a tiny burnisher (make one from a broken drill bit, smoothed and rounded?) to press them down further. I have backset rings by raising stitches to hold the stone in place. Stitches arent the strongest things in the world but, your stone is small and will be set pretty low. Practice with the graver first, if you havent already got the hang of it. Tim McCreight shows the technique inThe Complete Metalsmithon page 128 but, it is slightly different in that he is holding a collar of metal up against the stone (from the back) and you dont a: have a collar and b. arent able to get behind the stone. Im thinking that the seat will act as a collar.
One last idea: Is what you are riveting able to survive the torch? If so, maybe you could make tiny prongs. Drill holes in the perimeter of the smashed down rivet, close to where the stone will be. Set the prongs into the holes and solder. Set. Although, I once tried to make a tiny nose ring for myself with prongs and went insane (permanently). Ive searched the internet and cant find anything that relates to this subject so, these ideas are all that I can offer. Whether they will work or not, I dont know.
Im working on a flush setting now! You make it all look so easy!! However, I cant seem to find a place online to buy loose CZ stones. Could you tell me of some common places to buy the loose stones please?
CZs are as abundant as sand at the beach! Rio Grande sells them in many, many shapes and sizes.Heres a linkto their page for just 3mm rounds.Heres some at Amazon.There are a ton of other suppliers. I know Ebay sells them and Etsy too. Just Google: (size wanted) 3mm round CZ loose.
With the setting, be prepared to make a few mistakes. When I started this technique, I drilled a bunch of holes, cut as many seats and started setting away maybe 10 15 settings. I tried teeny stones (1mm and 1.5mm), small (2mm-3mm) medium (3.5mm 4.5mm) and large (everything else). They all set differently.
The smaller stones are easiest to set believe it or not!
Wear eye magnification when doing this technique it will help a lot.
Id, also, abandon all need for perfection and just go for it.
When snapping them into place, use a soft pusher like a pointed, copper rod or a urethane rod and try to tap only once or twice on that opposite edge. Youll figure out how hard, soon enough.
People (I include myself in this category), usually set them too shallowly, too deeply, crookedly/unevenly or they crack the stones.
You want the table, of the stone, flush with the metal.
You can always solder two pieces of metal together for more depth.
Larger stones can sit a little higher than small their tables can be a bit above the plane.
Dont have the culet sticking out of the bottom.
I always recommend practice until you are very comfortable with the technique before setting on a finished piece.
I am just finishing a piece that has several set stones. In one of the settings the stone was a bit low in the bezel and I didnt notice it until I was almost finished (yes, I know, what was I thinking//) Anyway, is there a successful way to get the bezel away from the stone so that I can remove the stone, insert some material into the bottom of the bezel to raise the stone and then reset it using the same bezel? It is already set on a backplate and soldered to to piece. How to remove the stone from the bezel that is already pushed and formed over the stone. Any ideas?
You can try using a graver, exacto blade, prong lifter, slim knife anything that is strong enough to lift the metal and thin enough to fit between the stone and the bezel wall. Look for a spot, on the bezel, that gaps the most and gently insert your tool. Try to keep it off of the stone. Slowly and carefully, pull up the bezel wall and start to slide (carefully) around the perimeter, gently pushing upwards. Watch the stone scratching is possible. Because the bezel is too big, you might have enough undamaged metal left to re-set it (just file down any damaged portions) which will probably be on the top edges of the bezel or you could get lucky and have little damage and can prop the stone up, as planned. A lot depends on how far you were in the setting process and the thickness of the bezel material. The thinner bezels tend to tear and nick.A lot depends on how far you were in the setting process, the thickness of the bezel material and your carefulness at moving the wall. The thinner bezels tend to tear and nick.How to Make a Bezel Set Ring
I got into making jewelry about 1 month ago and Im doing pretty good at creating bezels. I was wondering if youre familiar with the type of setting the ring is in the attached picture? I would love to make a ring similar to that for myself, but Im a little baffled.
Welcome to the jewelry world. The ring is a bit ambitious for one just starting out but, what the heck. It is a drop-in bezel set ring (from what I can see). It was probably made in wax first and then cast.
Another method that could have been used to create this ring, is fabrication. Ive included this link fromAlan Revere at Ganoksinfrom his book:Professional Goldsmithing.Icant believe I actually found the pattern (and the instructions thank you Alan!), as I first made this ring when I was a new jeweler almost 20 years ago! It took awhile to remember where I got the pattern from. The ring didnt turn out right but, I still have it and fondly recall struggling through its construction.
There are several good books on stone setting. I have a few listed on my website underBooks: Links. There are also books, that I own and use, on jewelry making.
Heres something to consider while you are on your jewelry making journey byIra Glass:
Nobody tells this to people who are beginners. I wish someone had told me: All of us, who do creative work, get into it because we have good taste.BUT THERE IS A GAP. For the first couple of years you make stuff. Its just not that good. Its trying to be good. It has potential, but its not. But, your taste, the thing that got you into the game, is still killer. Your taste is why your work disappoints you!
A lot of people never get past this phase. They quit. Most of the people that I know, who do interesting, creative work, went through years of this. We know our work doesnt have this special thing that we want it to have.WE ALL GO THROUGH THIS!If y